Does a Safariland ALS holster for a PDP exist?
I bought a Walther PDP recently and wanted a Safariland ALS holster for it. I have one for my Glocks. It works with a Surefire X300U and Streamlight TLR-1HL. It accommodates the red dots I have and it’s wrapped in woodland Cordura. I wanted the same thing for the PDP. If you’ve spent some time searching the internet for a Safariland 6000-series ALS Level 1 holster for your PDP (6390RDS, specifically), then you know that they don’t exist. I spent a few hours on Safariland’s website, struggling through the holster builder, thinking that it’s impossible—they have to make one for the PDP…Well they don’t. So how the heck do I get one?
The Hard Part: starting with the right base
A good friend of mine owns and operates Ghostmen Designs. He discovered the secret sauce to getting Safariland ALS holsters to fit is Walther PPQs with red dots, the H&K VP9s, Caniks…the list goes on. So, I called him up to ask him what I needed to do.
Turns out, the Walther PDP is roughly the same height as a S&W M&P 2.0. So I started with a 6390RDS for the M&P Core 2.0 9L (the long-slide). I was able to find the model number on Cop Quest’s website: 6354RDS-8182-541-MS19. This is the STX right-handed model. I knew I was going to wrap it, so I went STX in foliage green. I know what you’re thinking, the model number says 6354RDS, not 6390RDS. Safariland has some weird model enumeration. I am not going to try to figure it out, but trust me. This is the holster you need.
Now to find one in stock somewhere…Luckily, I was able to find one on Amazon (of all places).
The easy part: send the holster to Ghostmen Designs
So, there is some work that needs to be done to the ALS portion of the holster for it to fit the PDP and still retain the gun as intended. Chris at over at Ghostmen has figured this out. He can mod the holster to fit the PDP. His holster order page isn’t up, but you can probably contact him through Instagram or Facebook.
If I hadn’t asked how he does it, I probably would have just taken the whole backing off and tried to press it on the holster, creating a terrible result.
The DIY Cordura wrap
When Chris sent my holster back, I had him add a Multicam and Multicam Tropic “Wrap your own holster” Cordura wraps. The wraps come with an adhesive backing that make wrapping the holster relatively easy. There’s a method to the application. If I hadn’t asked how he does it, I probably would have just taken the whole backing off and tried to press it on the holster, creating a terrible result. You can get cordura wrap in a ton of different patterns here: https://www.ghostmendesigns.com/product/wrap-your-own-holster/
- Disassemble your holster
- Imprint the holster into the wrap
- Hold open the holster and begin applying wrap
- Trim and clean up
- Reassemble the holster
Things you will need before you start:
- Xacto knife or razor blade knife with several replacement blades
- Sharpie or marker
- Ruler or some straight edge
- Bic Lighter
Step 1: Completely disassemble the holster
To start you need to remove all of the bolts, ALS spring cover, the barrel plug, light plug, light tensioning screw, QLS fork, optic cover, and thumb hood. The next step is a little scary, but trust me, you won’t ruin your holster, if you’re patient. On the back of the holster pull the back, overlapping shell over the T-nuts and pull the holster apart slowly. Pull the holster open slowly. You should now be able to remove the ALS mechanism. See photo below.
Step 2: Imprint the ALS spring cover into the wrap
Now that you have the holster disassembled, you can close it back up for this step. Place the holster in the center of the wrap. You can rotate and adjust to get the pattern how you want it to look on the outside of the holster. Make sure you have enough material to reach to the back on each side. Once you’re happy with that, imprint the T-nut from ALS spring cover into the adhesive side. This marks a starting point where we will start applying the wrap. Cut that hole out with an Xacto. Next, take a marker and outline the holster so you can line it up after the next step.
Step 3: Hold open the holster and cut the first strip
Pull the holster open as you did when you removed the ALS. Use the back portion as a “door stop” against the inner portion to hold the holster open. Be careful with it in this position as it can snap shut on your fingers. I’m sure it hurts.
Next cut roughly 2in strip of the adhesive backing, be careful not to cut the Cordura. Make light cuts and take your time. Next place the ALS spring cover T-nut in the hole and start pressing wrap material on to the holster.
Continue cutting adhesive backing in those 2in strips towards the “outer” back shell. As you are pressing the material bubbles may form. You can use a thumb tack or pine to release the air and press the material down. Once you start getting to the back of the holster, you can begin closing the holster and continue applying to the back. As you get to T-nuts and studs, cut them out. I closed up the holster over the T-nuts at this point, so I could cut the material around them.
Once you have covered the outer shell, you can trim along the contour line. Next you’ll start pressing the material over the sight channel and optic hood. Chris recommends starting at the top of the hood. Unfortunately, I don;’t have any pics of this part, but it’s not difficult. Just be patient, press the material and release air bubbles as needed. Cut any holes as soon as you wrap over them.
When you get to the back with the inner shell, you can cut material that would be behind the thumb hood and ALS thumb slide.
Step 4: Trim and clean up the edges
Once you’ve wrapped the holster and you’re happy with it, we can trim the excess material. Once that’s done, you can seal the material with a lighter. Hit all the edges and holes you’ve cut out.
Step 5: Reassemble your holster and admire your work
Don’t forget to add a Portal too. Pat yourself on the back. You got through it!
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